Pop geeks from Denton, Texas, Zest Of Yore sound like nothing so much as Matthew Sweet after downing a hefty handful of quaaludes. The songs on the group's dyslexically-titled EP, Admit That It's Christmas (You've Got To) (2003), wander aimlessly in the vicinity of catchy and tuneful while never quite arriving - too twee, mournful, and self-conscious for their own good. Granted, this could reflect a mere lack of production - the album was clearly recorded and manufactured on a tight budget and is available only through DIY website CDBaby. At their very best - on, say, "Brandish Your Uniform" - the Zest boys resemble Seattle's sainted Posies, and I can't help but wonder what this record would have sounded like had more resources (or experience) been available in the studio.

Nevertheless, a band goes to battle with the album it made, and Admit That It's Christmas sounds like a glorified demo tape. So, why are we here? Well, the title song - the only Christmas song herein - is really pretty spiffy. True, it suffers from the same lack of polish and energy that torpedoes the rest of the record. But, the understated production and singer/songwriter Stephen Pierce's naif-like vocals serve the song (and the season) well. The band's sly sense of humor - sneaking in a line about "dangling our balls" - doesn't hurt, either.

Like so many homemade records, Admit That It's Christmas will soon be forgotten. My hope is that an astute label will anthologize the title track in a more appropriate context - something like Black Vinyl's Yuletunes, for instance - lending it a bit of immortality as a minor classic. Interestingly, the band cut an entirely new version of the song for it's first full-length album, Throw It At The Moon (2004). Louder, more electric, and noticeably less relaxed, this second edition is decidedly improved, though the lackadaisical original retains its own druggy charms.